Eva on the Via Francigena (and beyond)

Song of the Day: Country Road — James Taylor

“Take to the highway, won’t you lend me your name / Your way and my way seem to be one and the same…I guess my feet know where they want me to go, walking on a country road”

Despite the fact that my mom likes James Taylor, I don’t think I heard this song until it was used in the movie The Way. If you haven’t seen it, I highly recommend it — Martin Sheen and Emilio Estevez made it together, and it follows the journey of an American doctor walking the Camino de Santiago following his son’s death. It’s a touching film full of beautiful scenery that I found very inspiring when preparing for my pilgrimage.

As today was a shorter day, I let myself sleep until almost 8:30, before heading down to get breakfast. There was an American couple sitting at the table next to me — we didn’t speak, but I eavesdropped on their discussion of what to do. They seemed surprised by the number of Great War-related activities, which made me wonder how they ended up in Peronne of all places. I also chatted with Krista from Belgium, who I initially met en route to Bapaume. We discussed the route ahead — she would leave before me — and the need to buy food ahead of time, as there seemed to be nothing available on the way to (or in) Trefcon.

At 10am I finished packing up and left the hostel, en route to the Carrefour on my way out of town. I intended to pick up something to eat for lunch in addition to what I was already carrying, but all of the ready to eat sandwiches made me feel a bit ill just looking at them, so I just grabbed a whole wheat baguette, which I shoved into an outside pocket of my pack, and headed for the path.

Even though I theoretically was following the VF for most of the 3.5 hour walk today, I only saw 2 sign postings, both of which were miles into the journey. Others walking this route should ensure they have GPS.

The first few miles were through a forested path, which was quiet and peaceful. It was relatively flat, and so the roughly hour and twenty minutes of walking flew by. Not much to report from this section apart from the bright orange (like, popsicle / Gatorade orange) slugs that which seemed to have an almost radioactive glow. Very different from the brownish-green slugs I am familiar with at home.

Emerging from the forest I arrived in Cartigny, where I sat in the shade of the church to air out my feet. I’m trying a new anti-blister strategy today — I still taped up my existing blisters and am using the toe caps, but in addition I am trying a new liner sock strategy, as I don’t think the double-socks I purchased in Arras seem to do the trick. So, I am using thin nylon socks (think women’s stockings) layered under a thin pair of normal socks — I started with a pair of merino wool Darn Toughs, which were soaked through after only 1.5 hours of walking. I ended up switching to a polyester pair of running socks which were extremely thin — these too got sweaty, but they seemed to hold out a bit better. I think I will continue with this strategy for a few days.

Leaving Cartigny, I passed by a flea market, which even had an actual bathroom — this was my last real brush with civilization for the day. Another 40 minutes through rolling fields of green and grain, with a nice breeze and a light cloud cover, made for excellent walking. A farm track brought me to Bouvincourt-en-Vermandois, who have embraced their location on the Via Francigena with a mural: Canterbury, 210km. Rome, 1150km. Don’t remind me! I found a park bench and had my road lunch: part of of the baguette with the saucisson I have been carrying for a few days. I was expecting this to be the return of the WSS (World’s Saddest Sandwich) — my go-to travel meal — but (perhaps unsurprisingly, given we are in France), this simple sandwich was actually delicious. I polished it off with a Kit-Kat I had bought in Sheperdswell and continued on my way.

I was expecting the next 25 minute walk to Vraignes-en-Vermandois to be relatively easy: on Maps.Me it showed another farm track across fields. But about 50 meters in, after getting stung by some sort of plant, and whacking tall grass out of the way, I looked up and realized the entire road was completely overgrown. Bushwhacking it is, then — I pulled out my rain pants to use as leg protection, since I was wearing shorts, and pushed on. Once I was clear of that road and back on a recently cleared gravel track, I thought I was basically set for the day in terms of excitement. However, I realized that Maps.Me was showing a turn-off coming up, and I couldn’t see this alleged road off to my right. I shrugged and figured it wasn’t visible yet because of the angle of the hill, but, after passing a lovely field of poppies on my left, it became clear that this rightward road did not exist. I could try to follow some tractor tracks through a field of some sort of tall leafy crop, or continue alongside the crops on the recently-tilled field. I opted for the latter — harder work than it sounds, with my feet sinking into the dirt with every step — and, after scaring aware a hare and some sort of large bird, finally made it to the road and another properly paved path.

From here, I dove back into the forest around the Omignon River. I was happy to be out of the sun and in the cool forest, with just the sound of the wind in the trees. I passed a group of teenagers who were camping near the a small waterfall, and saw hoof prints that showed someone had passed by on horseback recently. But otherwise, it was a quiet, peaceful walk, until one final uphill into Trefcon.

I am staying in the pilgrim gite at the Val d’Omignon. The hosts are very kind (I brought some food, as there is nothing available in town), offering me eggs to add to my dinner, which I gratefully accepted. It’s a working farm (I think), with a sweet black dog, a handful of horses, some chickens, and a goose to keep guard of the stable. The gite has 2 rooms, each with two beds. I think tonight it will just be myself and Krista, who heads to Saint-Quentin tomorrow. I have some instant ramen, half a baguette and saucisson, some peanuts, and an orange (plus the eggs) to tide me over. Tomorrow, I hope, I can replenish my food supply in Seraucourt-le-Grand: there looks to be a grocery store, but given the holiday on Tuesday, I’m not sure if it will be open.

Final mileage: 10.78 mi
Walking time: 5h 02m
Elevation gain: 246ft

Accommodation: The pilgrim gite at Val d’Omignon. Trefcon is a very quiet hamlet of ~80 residents, and this is the only accommodation. It’s an apartment with a small kitchenette, a bathroom, and two bedrooms with two beds each. So far it’s been perfectly nice, though other pilgrims have reported difficulties with the appliances. I will report back after my dinner of ramen and eggs. (Note: everything worked fine — the accomodation was basic but perfectly manageable.)