Eva on the Via Francigena (and beyond)

Song of the Day: Bella — Jovanotti

“Bella, come una mattina d’acqua cristallina / come una finestra che mi illumina il cuscino / Calde come il pane, ombre sotto un pino”

I sort of loosely had plans for this song later on down the line, but when I woke up this morning to the sky brightening over the Piedmontese plain, I instantly had the opening lyrics to this song stuck in my head. And while today wasn’t breathtakingly scenic like some of the previous days, it was beautiful in its own way.

It was properly cold last night — in the 40s — so it was chilly this morning when I awoke. With a bit of a struggle, I disentangled myself from my silk sleeping bag liner and padded outside to check on my clothes which had been drying on the line overnight. As soon as I stepped outside I noticed something was different — it took me a second for it to fully register, but it was the absence of the mountains. The sun was rising over the flat plains ahead, so rather than getting the bluish semi-light I was used to in the morning, the sky had already brightened significantly at 7am. I breathed in the cool, fresh air as I gathered my things and began to quietly pack. Soon Antonio, Kevin, and Anja also began to stir and the four of us set about preparing for the day.

I had breakfast downstairs with my bunk-mates, as well as with some Italian walkers who were walking the Camino d’Oropa like Antonio. We chatted over tea, toast, and yogurt. I was the second to depart after Antonio — thanking our hosts and botching my attempt to stamp my credentials, before grabbing my things and heading out into the cool morning.

It was an easy day, only 9 miles or so to Santhia, and of course the hardest up and downhills are behind me now. I basked in the early morning sun as I made my way up the hill out of Roppolo, turning back to get another glimpse of the mountains behind me, then headed into what was called “the Forest of the Elves.” I alternated between trees and fields here for awhile, including some interesting low-slung pines.

Soon I found myself entering the charming village of Cavaglia. I really was beginning to feel like I was in a more recognizable part of Italy — much of the architecture here reminds me of other towns in Piemonte I have visited, as well as some towns in Emilia-Romagna. As I followed the paved stone Main Street into town, I noticed that flags had been strung up along the street — I must have missed a Saint’s Day. Suddenly I realized that the massive building next to me was the church, and I ducked in to visit it.

I was taken aback by how big the church was for such a small down. It was truly captivating, beautiful and bright. I was starting to feel my thoughts race again, so sat down to clear my mind for a bit. I heard the bells toll 9am above me and realized I might get caught in a Sunday mass if I lingered, so I lit a candle for my great-grandmother and then left, with one more look up at the massive dome.

It was warm in the church, and stepping outside I was hit with a rush of cool air that was reinvigorating. I remembered the Italian pilgrims had recommended a pastry shop in town, so I tracked it down and sat outside for a cappuccino and cornetto alla crema — a delicious indulgence on this clear morning.

Heading out of town, I saw a sign pointing toward a turn-off for a “panchina grande.” I had heard about these “big benches,” part of an art installation, and was curious to see one in person. I climbed up a short hill to a public park, where I dropped my bag and poles. Before the bench, which was up another hill, was a short zip-line that was calling my name. Feeling like a kid again, I pulled it back to its starting position and flew — faster than expected — toward the other end. It was fun! I jogged over to the bench and climbed up — again, feeling a bit like a kid on the massive structure, which I think as the point — and enjoyed the view.

After a bit I headed back down to grab my things and continued on out of town. I passed a dairy farm — recognizable not just by smell but by the plaintive moos — and a few other working farms. Off to my left, over an abandoned lot covered in wildflowers, I could see the dome of a church towering over the horizon. Behind it, the spines of the alps, the highest of which were finally dusted in a coating of snow. Apparently, there had been heavy snow at the pass last night — I snuck through just in time.

I continued on, passing through all sorts of fields and intermittent stands of trees. The predominant colors of the day were green and gold. And, I passed a number of pilgrims — all of them going in the opposite direction on the Camino d’Oropa. A young guy named Ivan in full Camino getup stopped me to chat — first asking if I was Italian, and then more curious when I said I was American. He had a lot of questions about my Via Francigena experience. “I just finished the Camino de Santiago in June,” he said, “and I’ve been having post-Camino blues. It is so amazing to meet someone doing something even more difficult than that!” I laughed and nodded, and we continued chatting for awhile. He thanked me for talking, said I had really made an impression, and continued on. I too was grateful for the interaction — a positive pick-me-up just as the day was starting to get hot and draggy.

Soon enough I was in Santhia’s center, and called the number I was given, where a kind woman named Virginia appeared on her bike to give me the keys and show me the room. For the time being, I had an apartment to myself — there were two Italian men there as well but she didn’t want us bunking up together (fine by me!)

I was too hungry to do anything but drop my bag, so I quickly headed over to the Hotel Vittoria where I had been promised traditional Piedmontese food. I walked into the most dated restaurant I have ever seen — it seriously was like a time machine back to the 80s, maybe 90s. There was no menu, just a list of options without prices. I was told the pilgrim menu was 15 euros, but then was just told to order what I wanted (as it turned out, there was no pilgrim menu, just a 10% discount). I got an antipasto of battuta di carne (steak tartare) and a primo of agnolotti (Piedmontese ravioli), paired with Nebbiolo, naturally. Both were absolutely delicious, and topped off with a tiramisu, I meandered back to the hostel for a shower and nap.

In the afternoon I did some shopping for tomorrow — a long day with only one town across almost 20 miles of rice fields — and made plans to meet up with Anja and Kevin for dinner later. We ended up going back to the Hotel Vittoria where I ordered the agnolotti again (they were really good, okay!) It was great spending more time with them — we chatted about more personal things this time like relationships and how to improve your mindset. Anja is studying psychology so had a very interesting perspective on all of this. On the way out we passed through the hotel bar, where the Torino-Roma football match was on: the room was full of older Italian men, all sitting arms crossed, eyes glued to the screen. We laughed at the scene and headed back to the hostel, and then to bed.

Final mileage: 9.23mi
Walking time: 3h 30m
Elevation gain: 187 ft

Accommodation: Santhia’s communal pilgrim hostel. The rooms are spacious and there are multiple apartments (sounds like they try and split up men and women which is appreciated!)