Eva on the Via Francigena (and beyond)

Song of the Day: Time in a Bottle — Jim Croce

“But there never seems to be enough time / To do the things you want to do once you find them”

This was a late-breaking choice — in fact, it was the last song I listened to today, in a restaurant that played a lot of good songs. But as today was my last rest day until Rome, an I have turned pensive about the impending end of this journey, it feels like a good fit.

I woke up before the rain started, and went for a walk through the quiet streets of Siena. It was still damp from yesterday and a bit chilly, and I perched at an espresso bar for a coffee and a pastry before heading back to the B&B to read for a bit.

Rain started to lightly patter outside the window, and before I knew it, I was asleep — taking a nap only a few hours after waking up. That’s how you know it’s a rest day. Anyway, once awake again, the sun was starting to come out, and with more of the city’s monuments open it was time for sightseeing.

I bought a combined ticket to Siena’s Cathedral complex and made my way in. To be honest, it was a bit of a miserable experience visiting the Duomo. Don’t get me wrong, the structure itself is beautiful: mesmerizing black-and-white striped marble columns, intricate mosaic floors, sculptures by Michelangelo and Bernini….but the place was completely overcrowded, stuffed to the brim with groups of guided tours who clogged up the walkways. To make matters worse, these groups would chat amongst themselves, over the din of the guides speaking into their microphones. In the expansive space the sound rebounded, and the cavernous nave was full of the sound of chatter in what should have been a sacred space. Frustrated by the crowds and the noise, I squeezed my way into the Chigi chapel to see Bernini’s St. Jerome and Mary Magdalene, into the Piccolomini library to see fantastic frescos and 15th century massive books, and elbowed my way towards the floor mosaics of the Sybils. Feeling I had seen enough, I escaped into fresh air.

Wanting to fully get the value out of the combined ticket I had purchased, I (after quickly getting a stamp from the door near the campanile) headed to the Duomo museum, which has the incredibly impressive stained-glass window that used to sit in the Duomo’s face. During WWII, it was taken apart to protect it from damage. In addition the museum has a lot of medieval religious art and relics and what not, which I skimmed through pretty quickly. Then I climbed a few slippery, wet, spiral staircases to an outdoor panoramic view, which was absolutely spectacular. I could see for miles in every direction — back where I came from yesterday, and where I am headed tomorrow. I sat basking in the sun and taking photos until the guides asked everyone to clear out to make room for the next tranche of people.

Starting to get hungry, I made quick work of the Duomo’s frescoed crypt and baptistery, which to be honest felt like they were lacking in signage and explanations. Then I headed to lunch at a small trattoria near my hotel where I treated myself to a multi-course meal: a delicious panzanella to start, then pici al ragu, and finally a tiramisu. Sluggish after a big meal, I headed back to the hotel to rest and write.

In the afternoon, I decided it was time to head back out for some gelato. The nearest gelateria to the B&B ended up being very good, which worked out well — so many of the places I had passed near Piazza del Campo looked terrible, with their huge, neon-colored mounds of gelato in the windows. I went for another walk around the city, talking to my dad on the phone and sitting for awhile to admire the facade of the duomo as it shimmered in the late afternoon sun. As it started to get dark I headed back to the B&B and sat on the terrace through “sunset” which wasn’t much of an event due to the clouds. But I enjoyed the view, drinking a cup of tea and sewing up my tote bag, which had multiple rips in need of repair.

After dark I headed out in search of aperitivo, where I had a glass of too-young Brunello at a wine bar. I gave up and retreated to a restaurant nearby where I fueled up with another big meal to prepare for more walking: pici all’aglione (a tomato sauce with the big garlic) and a steak tartare. Satisfied, if uncomfortably full, I meandered back through the quiet streets to the B&B.