Eva on the Via Francigena (and beyond)

Song of the day: Canyon Moon — Harry Styles

This song has been stuck in my head since I was walking into Wisques but I couldn’t remember the name or who it was by. I was convinced it was by Vampire Weekend, even though I know almost their entire discography by heart (and confirmed it was not by listening to the few songs I didn’t know). Many thanks to Derek, if he is sees this, for being my sounding board and listening to my terrible humming via voice memo.

I got to bed late last night for no good reason — it was almost 11:30 by the time I fell asleep. I decided to let myself sleep in since I had nowhere to be, and things wouldn’t open until 9 anyway. At about 7:50 I was up and out. I grabbed a pan au chocolat from a local boulangerie and visited the former Cathedral of Saint Jean Baptiste, which housed yet another Rubens Descent from the Cross (not pictured, but interestingly he had a slightly different cast of characters in this one). I then settled in at the Notting Hill coffee shop on the Place des Heros for a cappuccino and a solid 45 minutes of re-planning my route given my unexpected rest day in Arras. I’ve decided to set off for Bapaume tomorrow, hoping that my blisters will improve. From there I will follow the typical VF stages to Laon. However, the last stage (Tergnier-Laon) is 24 miles. Depending on how I am feeling, I saw advice from other pilgrims that this stage can be replaced (or shortened) by taking the train. We will see what happens — I have decided I’ll do what I need to to take care of my self (read: my feet) and ensure I can continue for 3 months, even if that means sacrificing a day here or there. I’ve also realized that the only accommodation in Corbeny is closed in August, so I will need to find accommodation elsewhere. It seems like the options are either a gite that is too close to Laon, leading to a very long day the following day, or following the train line and walking to a town with a train station, taking a train part of the way, and then completing the walk.

After my coffee I headed to the tourist office. I had a bus map and schedule, but the map didn’t label any streets and didn’t show major landmarks, so I wasn’t sure exactly where to find the bus stop I needed. The intern at the tourist office was, unfortunately, extremely unhelpful:

“Bonjour. I need to take the bus to the Arras Centre Commercial. Could you please help me figure out the closest bus stop?” She stared for a minute at the paper map I placed on the desk. In an attempt to be helpful, I added “I’m pretty sure it’s St. Jean — I just can’t figure out where that is. I think we are here,” I pointed to the center of the map.

“No,” she shook her head forcefully. “The train station is that way, behind you. You need to go that way.”

“I don’t need to go to the train station, I need to go to the Centre Commercial, which is on the way to the hospital, which is in front of us.”

“I don’t know. But the train station is that way. So you need to go in that direction.” She pointed again, and stared at the map.

Recognizing a lost cause, I thanked her and walked away, confused about her insistence regarding the train station, which was very clearly in the wrong direction. I then realized that she was only probably 20 years old, and it’s possible she didn’t have much experience reading paper maps. I set off in the direction away from the train station and eventually reached the bus stop I needed, where I took the bus to the Arras Centre Commercial — a massive set of large-format stores that wouldn’t be out of place in an American suburb.

I was headed for the Arras Intersport, where I spent about an hour, grabbing every pair of hiking socks sold in my size in an attempt to find something that would be better for my blisters. They had a few options of “double socks” which have a built-in liner: they are polyester, not wool, but I’m willing to give them a shot. I also bought a sporty baseball cap — while I am very sentimental about my Harvard hat, which has traveled everywhere with me, it gets too hot in the sun and doesn’t wick sweat. For the time being, until it gets cooler, it will be more of a pack decoration.

Back in town, I headed to lunch in the Place des Heros (naturally): another steak tartare and a crepe for dessert. I then retired to the hotel for a longer-than-anticipated nap. I did a few more hours of preparation (finally downloading the Cicerone guidebook, and asking Nathan for help booking pilgrim accommodations a few days down the line.)

I don’t think there is anywhere open for lunch on the way to Bapaume tomorrow, so I stopped by a local grocery store for a saucission and cheese, and a boulangerie for a baguette. Hopefully for dinner tomorrow I can manage to find something green — the options in Arras have all been variations on boeuf.

I grabbed a gelato and a glass of rose and another table on the square to write this blog . For dinner I’m hoping to grab a sandwich (update: it was a mediocre sausage sandwich “Americaine style” — i.e., massive), and then early to bed for an early day tomorrow.

Thank you to everyone, family and friends, who have subscribed to the blog and commented — it means a lot to know I have people looking out for me. Onwards to Bapaume!