Eva on the Via Francigena (and beyond)

Song of the Day: California Stars — Billy Bragg & Wilco

“I’d like to dream my troubles all away / On a bed of California stars / Jump up from my star bed and make another day / Underneath my California stars / They hang like grapes on vines that shine / And warm the lover’s glass like friendly wine / So, I’d give this world just to dream a dream with you / On our bed of California stars”

I don’t have any strong associations with this song in particular, I just think it’s a really great song. And with the muggy weather and heat today, it was a good soundtrack to propel me forward.

Today was another combined train + walk day — this time due to not really my physical limitations, but the difficulties of walking the VF in August. France in general has limited accommodations in the interim towns and villages (compared to the VF in Italy, and certainly compared to the Camino de Santiago). Corbeny, intended to be my next night after Laon, only has one hotel in town, and it closes for the entirety of August. So, my options were to stay elsewhere (however, most of the options I found were closer to Laon, and would have made the stage to St. Thierry too long), or use the train to break up the days. I decided that what made the most sense was to take a morning train to Guignicourt, far away from the official VF path, and walk for about 4 hours to the monastery at St. Thierry.

I got up at 6:30 and began packing up and clearing out of my Laon Airbnb, stopping by the ramparts to admire the view as mist hung over the Picardy plain. By 7:20 I was out on the street and headed to the train station, with a pit stop at a boulangerie to pick up a pain au chocolat (of course) and a jambon buerre sandwich. My train was a few minutes delayed but also skipped some of the intermediary stops, so after watching flat farmland fly by for about twenty minutes, I alighted in Guignicourt just after 8:30 and was on my way.

As mentioned, I was far away from the official VF path, so was relying entirely on Maps.Me / Google Maps today to get me where I needed to go. While Maps.Me has been quite solid for most of my journey, I have run into a few issues in the past few days (see: the path to Trefcon that did not exist). I was concerned that some of the farm roads it was suggesting may also not be there. And, sure enough, the canal path it wanted me to take out of Seraucourt was blocked by a locked gate. Luckily I had thought through potential detours already, and knew I could get where I needed following a D-road that didn’t seem too busy.

So, I continued on my merry way on the wide grassy verge of this D-road, past a small village centered around a train station that I think is no longer served by trains, through another small village, and into open farmland. On my way out of the second village, I passed a man standing in the road, whistling for his dog. Since entering France I have passed my fair share of intimidating guard dogs (thankfully always with a fence between us) and was a bit concerned that a large, angry dog was about to come running out of the long grass. Imagine my surprise when this tiny thing (see below) stumbled out of his yard, barely able to move as he was not much taller than the grass. Adorable.

After that, hours of walking on familiar farm roads with not much notable in terms of scenery. For awhile I walked on a path parallel to the railroad tracks, where I met a couple scavenging for blueberries who were shocked to hear about my pilgrimage plans.

From there I continued on into the village of Loivre, where I popped into an open market(!) to grab an apple and Orangina to supplement my sandwich. I sat down on the steps of the elementary school, took off my shoes and socks to air out, and dug in. During this time, two separate women came over to ask where I was walking. Both times I explained the Via Francigena and my plan to walk to Rome. Both were surprised. The second one kindly offered me her home if I needed to wash up — I thanked her but declined, as I was relatively close to St. Thierry.

After my lunch, I continued along farm roads. Eventually these began to parallel the Autoroute (the A-road), though there was a barrier and a stand of trees between me and the highway, so I never felt particularly close to the traffic. I crossed using an underpass and skirted behind a toll plaza, before taking a right and heading uphill to St. Thierry. About 30 minutes out I saw my first sign announcing what I knew to be true: I had crossed into the Champagne region. You could see the region’s signature chalky soil underfoot, and after another 10 minutes or so of walking I finally traded the endless grain and green for gorgeous rows of vines. Re-energized, I picked up the pace. Up the last hill into St. Thierry, I passed directly next to a vineyard of black grapes (either Pinot Meunier or Pinot Noir, I’m not sure) undergoing veraison, where the grapes change color from green to purple.

It was hot now, and I was in direct sunlight, so after stopped to admire the grapes, I powered through to the St. Thierry Benedictine Monastery, where I would be spending the night. I checked into my room and stopped by the hotellerie’s shop to buy a bar of chocolate, and ended up buying a pendant necklace of St. Christopher, who is the patron saint of travelers. I figured having a bit more oversight for this journey wouldn’t be a bad thing.

After the typical nap and shower I took a lap around the monastery grounds, exploring the garden with herbs and rows of fruit trees, and looking at the views over vines out towards Reims, which you could see in the distance. I also trekked a few minutes down the road to a building that was listed as Veuve Clicquot on Apple Maps, but was actually a different Champagne house. However, I had heard previously that vines around here belonged to Veuve Clicquot (they also say so on their site) so I wouldn’t be surprised if the other winery sold some of their grapes to them (a common practice in Champagne).

I returned to the Monastery in time for Vespers at 5:30 with the nuns and the other guests of the monastery. I was surprised to see a few other young women around me, including one who was also dressed in sports clothes and trekking sandals — another pilgrim? Indeed, she was Giulia from Rome, who the priest in Canterbury had mentioned to me, and whose name I had seen in the guidebooks ahead of me. She had walked the stages before Arras that I missed, but skipped the Arras-Tergnier sections (and stayed in the Diocese there a few days before me). We finally caught up to each other, and it was great to connect about the route so far and our plans going forward. I will likely see her again in Reims.

We also met Alicia, from Reims, and Claire, a medical student who is from the center of France and who was staying in the monastery to study (apparently this is not an uncommon thing in France — certainly better than cramming in a depressing university library). Claire, Giulia, and I sat together at dinner and chatted amongst ourselves and with the other guests. Dinner was a heart meal: soup, quiche, pasta, cheese, and a pistachio panna cotta served with Provençal rose. After dinner, Giulia, Claire and I exchanged phone numbers and retired separately to write and study.

Tomorrow is only about 6 miles (2 hours of walking). Inspired by Giulia’s idea to do a champagne tasting en route to Saint-Thierry, I think I would like to visit a cellar on my way into Reims, even if that means walking in the heat of the day (high of 86 tomorrow!). I have identified a few potential options that are on the way. Therefore I probably won’t head out until 9:30 or 10 from here, so I will have plenty of time tomorrow morning to plan and pack.

Final mileage: 12.07 mi
Walking time: 4h 27m
Elevation gain: 192 ft

Accommodation: The Abbey of Saint-Thierry. 25 Euros for a private soon (hallway bath and shower), dinner, and breakfast. Beautiful grounds and a unique opportunity. I would highly recommend.